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STEFANIA BERTONI
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Stefania Bertoni, jewellery and fashion recycled designer, studied goldsmithing in Valenza Po and later opened a goldsmith workshop in Santa Croce in Florence, she won the first prize at the prestigious international competition Jugend Gestaltet in Munich and she participated in various exhibitions (Milan, Bologna, Florence ), she has been teaching Fashion recycled at ISIA in Faenza since 1998, but her talent stands out for combining fabrics with metal, clothes with jewellery.

 

In fact, around 1996, at the same time as the beginning of her interest in jewellery design, her passion for fashion and vintage was born. In an interview, released on 27 September 2007 to Stefano Caggiano for design_interviste: The spaces of the body, she tell that the body has always been the central subject in her work and research. Brooches to put on the shoulder, rings that follow the movement of the fingers, clothes that turn over and bring the waist to the ankles and vice versa, bustiers with large breasts that become bags. Her work starts from a mannequin or from herself than from a blank sheet. In both cases, Stefania confesses that she spends some time in front of the mirror, looking for spaces where place jewels; or trying on old clothes and imagining what is missing, what to remove or what to add to revive it, not forgetting that in the end it is always the body that will carry it around. 

In 2004, with the fusion of jewellery design and fashion recycled, born a collection of vintage accessories combined with precious stones and metals called Bureau de Chance. It all started with a client, passionate about goldsmiths, who commissioned some pieces to Stefania. Then, on her work table, in addition to old clothes there were also threads of precious stones. With the desire to convey and say something new, she begins to think about parts of clothes that could become small accessories for the body: if a necklace is something that is around the neck, then also a scarf or the collar of a shirt they can be the same and for Stefania they are already necklaces.

From these small observations, Stefania begins to create cuff-cuffs or shirt collars or jacket reverse as chokers, and to make them even more necklaces and bracelets, she understands that she should have added that sign that has always made them recognisable: precious stones, which have always been an important and integral part of this kind of accessories. Bureau de Chance, begins to take the field and Stefania in addition to receiving several invitations, television appearances, successful testimonials and in 2005 she is the finalist at the first edition of "Who's on next?", the competition organised by Vogue and Alta Roma, also she arrives at have an important production. At this point the shops that sold and wanted Bureau de Chance became many more. In addition to the two sales and communication showrooms in Milan, another one was added in Paris.

The pieces of Bureau, with production and with the increase in requests, began to be packaged in other countries to have much lower costs, and Stefania often finds herself in Veneto, where there was production and distribution, and in Milan rather than on her work table. The producers rightly want the brand to expand its range with a series of easy and affordable pieces, but she realises that it was no longer her job, that with these changes she not recognised her work and so she abandoned.

 

BUREAU DE CHANCE F/W 2006
Later, Stefania collaborated successfully designing fashion recycled for the A.N.G.E.L.O in Lugo di Ravenna. Fashion recycled involves the construction of a real collection of clothes, all vintage then modified, which have a possible reproducibility, even if they will never be exactly all the same, because the basis on which the changes are made is always different. It is enough that there are some common characteristics. For example, if a bag made with t-shirts is drawn, there will be a series of bags of the same size and size but there will never be one identical to the other, because each t-shirt used is different. “Fashion consumes and flattens, homologates everything. Fashion recycled takes the "consummate" of fashion, transforms it and does not homologate it, it is impossible and also very complex to achieve” Stefania emphasises during the interview. She says that at the beginning of her career, precisely because her jewels were so heavily studied on the body, she needed to see them worn so that others could read them correctly. So models and clothes were the necessary for the project and at that time she preferred to look for vintage clothes to create something not approved, but not even the recognisability of a brand.
A.N.G.E.L.O GOLD
Photographic images realised by Stefania Bertoni & A.N.G.E.L.O
Artwork created by Stefania Bertoni & A.N.G.E.L.O
Texts by Stefano Caggiano

A(sustainability)project by Angelica Tanzini.

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